If Tulum is getting too chic for you, press southward to Mahahual, the sleepy “metropolis” of the Costa Maya. Sunburned cruise ship passengers roam the fishing village’s packed sand main street on port days but somnolence reasserts itself at night. The whitewashed, thatched roof towers of the intimate and hospitable Balamku Inn on the Beach rise from a pristine stretch of sand that is groomed daily, and kayaks are included in the price of the room (as is breakfast).

There are alternatives, but do they work in 2012? A thousand years ago, I was a student in Paris. I had a beautiful professor who showed up at the first class in a stunning, deep emerald green suit. I went to the second class eager to see what her next marvelous outfit would be.

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